Giaconda Chardonnay: A Perth First
The epitome of Australian Chardonnay—and perhaps the greatest wine made in our country. Polarising opinion or just my personal view? Either way, it doesn’t matter; this is simply how I see it.
For me, Giaconda Chardonnay is the finest white wine produced in Australia. Its reputation abroad is as strong as it is here at home. The small town of Beechworth, where it’s crafted, holds a special place in my heart. Ironically, I hated visiting Beechworth as a kid. Back then, it was just a bakery and a lolly shop. It was always cold or raining (sometimes both), and there wasn’t much for a teenage boy intent on finding a girlfriend—though I must admit, the pastries were good.
Fast forward 25 years, and now you can’t keep me away from this incredible country town. Beechworth is alive with old-world charm, where cobblestones, friendly faces, and quaint tea rooms dominate the landscape. There are no major shopping centres, fast-food outlets, or even modern service stations—just authentic, old-world Australia.
Nestled three hours northeast of Melbourne, Beechworth is steeped in history, from its gold rush days to its jail. It’s surrounded by vineyards, though they are surprisingly understated. Just 10 minutes outside town lies a small vineyard on a gentle south-facing slope, with a parcel planted to Roussanne facing north.
When I had the opportunity to purchase a vertical collection of Giaconda Chardonnay spanning 2010 to 2022 (excluding the non-existent 2020 vintage due to fires), I didn’t hesitate. Securing these bottles from a single collector, with perfect provenance, was unheard of. To my knowledge, such a tasting event had never been done before.
There were challenges to overcome, though. First, I needed to visit the winery to understand where these wines come from and how they’re made. Next, I had to find a venue worthy of such an occasion. Lastly, I had to figure out the pricing—while creating buzz was a priority, the focus was on sharing these extraordinary bottles rather than maximising profit. Too often, wines of this calibre are either collected and never enjoyed, consumed past their prime, or misunderstood. My goal was to change that—to showcase the best to as many people as possible.
The Event – Now in Perth
The Melbourne Edition of this event was hosted at Entrecôte, Prahran, in an intimate private dining room, with an incredible multi-course menu. The service, led by Tim and his team, was exceptional, and every detail—from glassware to temperature control—was meticulously planned.
Now, I’m bringing this experience to Perth at Lamont's Cottesloe for an equally unforgettable evening. With incredible food, top-tier service, and an intimate setting, this is your chance to experience the greatest Australian Chardonnay ever made in a way that’s never been done before in Perth.
To do the wines justice, I sourced 192 Riedel Montrachet glasses—each guest will have 12 glasses lined up, one for each vintage, as they enter the room. There’s nothing quite like seeing 12 Giaconda Chardonnays poured and ready to savour.
I’ll be pouring in order from youngest to oldest. This allows the younger wines to open up in the glass while giving the older vintages a chance to shine. Each guest will receive a 50ml pour of each wine at the perfect serving temperature. The experience is all about slowing down, smelling, tasting, and taking it all in before revisiting from oldest to youngest.
The Wines
2010 & 2011: Two vastly different wines. The 2010, a richer and more fruit-forward vintage, showcased its power in the glass. The 2011, often dismissed as a difficult year, surprised many with its balance and approachability.
2012 & 2013: The 2012 was my Wine of the Night (WOTN), with its crystalline purity, zippy acidity, and harmonious minerality—a nearly perfect wine. The 2013, while still excellent, lacked a touch of the power and precision seen in the 2012.
2014 & 2015: The 2014 was the group's WOTN, with roughly a third of the votes. Its balance of fruit, oak, and a subtle matchstick reduction made it shine at 10 years old. The 2015, equally impressive, had a reductive edge that suggested a longer aging potential.
2016 & 2017: These marked the start of a stellar run of vintages. Pristine, tightly coiled, and full of citrus and stone fruit, these wines were defined by their balance of savoury tones and sharp minerality.
2018 & 2019: The 2019 holds a special place for me as one of my all-time favourites. Its lush palate, restrained nose, and seamless integration of reduction and oak made it a joy to drink. The 2018, while slightly less powerful, reflected the vintage differences.
2021 & 2022: The 2021, Australia’s first white wine awarded 100 points by Erin Larkin (Wine Advocate), needs no introduction. Its reductive matchstick character, precise fruit, and sharp acidity make it a wine for the ages. The 2022, though similar, felt slightly toned down and more ready to drink now compared to the cellar-worthy 2021.
Reflections
Hosting this event in Melbourne was a milestone for me, and now bringing it to Perth is just as exciting.
Each event is a chance to learn, grow, and explore new opportunities in this wonderfully diverse wine industry. For now, I’ll savour the memories of Melbourne and get ready to create an unforgettable evening in Perth.
