Giaconda, more than just Australia’s best wine, it’s a legacy, a benchmark and a lifetime of work’s culmination in each and every bottle. It represents not just a label, but a story, a philosophy and a pursuit that has stretched across decades, refining itself into something truly iconic.
It has been a true honour and pleasure for me to be able to showcase my favourite wine from Australia to three sets of wine lovers in three states, Melbourne, Perth and Sydney. To pour these wines, to see the reaction and to share that sense of awe was an experience I will never forget. Whilst I could have easily filled more seats, the simple reality is that I just don’t have the bottles, nor the access, to repeat it again and again. That scarcity is both the heartbreak and the magic of Giaconda, it makes every shared bottle feel like a once-in-a-lifetime moment.
Nestled beautifully on the outskirts of Beechworth, perched quietly on top of a hill, sits a winery that looks unassuming, you could pass it without even noticing. But what sits up there overlooking the vines and rolling hills is far more than bricks and mortar. It’s a home, and it’s a workshop of ideas, dedication and relentless pursuit. The man behind it, Rick Kinzbrunner, has devoted his life to understanding this land. The pursuit of excellence goes far beyond the vineyard rows, it is decades of learnings, lessons, trial and error, all woven into the fabric of his wines. That kind of knowledge cannot be taught or bought; it can only be lived. Each time I’ve visited Rick I’ve left not only with greater insight into Giaconda, but also with a lesson that carries over into life itself. Sitting on the balcony at sunset, glass in hand, there’s a stillness, a sense of zen, where time slows and you realise why wines like these matter.
The magic of Beechworth has been known for a long time. It isn’t a fad or a rising star nor is it a hidden gem, it’s one of our great regions, and it deserves that recognition. The town itself has a charming, old-country feel. As a kid, I honestly hated going, it was antiques, a bakery and not much else. Now? You’ll struggle to pull me away. Cafes, wine bars, boutique shops and of course the bakery have given it new life, and it has become a destination worth travelling for. That transformation mirrors the wines, layers of history with fresh energy breathing through.
Drive just a few minutes out of town in almost any direction and you’ll find vineyards dotting the hillsides. Some are small, others are expanding, each adding to the tapestry of what Beechworth is becoming. The region is fascinating, shaped as much by its rugged soils as by its mountain-influenced climate. Sitting on the north-eastern slopes of Victoria’s High Country, its vineyards are rooted in some of the oldest geology on the continent. Granite is the hero, decomposed into sandy, free-draining soils that force vines to struggle, building concentration and character in the grapes. Pockets of old volcanic material and clay loams add further dimensions, lending richness and power. Together, they create fruit with depth, precision and that savoury mineral edge which has become the hallmark of Beechworth wines.
Climate is equally influential. Beechworth enjoys a cool, continental style: warm sunny days are softened by elevation, while cool nights lock in freshness and acidity. Rainfall is moderate, harvest later than surrounding regions, giving slow, even ripening. Chardonnay here shows that thrilling tension between power and finesse, while Shiraz, Nebbiolo and Pinot thrive in the extended season, building tannin, perfume and elegance. It is this interplay of granite and mountain air that makes Beechworth wines not only powerful, but hauntingly refined.
Showcasing a vertical of Giaconda Chardonnay was a dream I’d held for a long time. When I finally hosted it in Melbourne, people flew in from Brisbane and Sydney just to be there. That was the moment I thought wow, this isn’t just my obsession, people really do love Giaconda. I managed to fill two more events, each as special as the first. Across the three, we poured vintages stretching from 2000 right through to 2023. Not every vintage appeared at every dinner, but across the journey we shared bottles of 2000, 2002, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2021, 2022 and 2023. Each brought something unique, but a few standouts for me personally:
2021 – Pure power and grunt. From the moment you open it, the wine shouts. Flint, struck match, oak and sheer fruit density collide in an uncompromising, muscular style. A beast that demands patience, or at least a serious decant. The Power House.
2017 – The complete wine. Everything in harmony – fruit, oak, spice, reductive lift, all seamlessly integrated. Fresh, lively and already a joy to drink. Balance and palate feel steal the show here. The constant.
2013 – My personal favourite across the three events. A vintage I adore: rich and textural, weighty but never heavy. It balances ripeness with freshness, riper stone fruits and polished oak guiding you into its aged beauty while the acidity keeps it alive and thrilling. A masterclass in why great Chardonnay is worth cellaring. Pleasure town!
2010 – A surprise packet, particularly in Sydney. Bright, fresh and citrus-driven, still with that flinty reduction and gentle oak, but so youthful for its age. Fifteen years on and I’d never have guessed it, a testament to the longevity of Giaconda.
To end this blog almost feels wrong, because I could talk about these wines for pages. What keeps me coming back, what keeps me sharing, is that combination of balance, weight, texture and fruit that defines Giaconda. It never disappoints and it always leaves an impression. It’s the wine I believe everyone should try at least once, and if you’re lucky, many times.
Thank you, as always, for the support and for reading. I appreciate each and every one of you. Cheers.