The Chardonnay Challenge 2024
When I planned an event showcasing what I believed to be 12 of the best Chardonnays produced in our country, I never expected it to take off the way it did. It all started with conversations about which Chardonnay might be the greatest, how it compares to others, and whether there truly is a single standout or a group of "greats." There was only one way to find out: host a dinner and see.
The morning after the event, I woke to nearly 50 private messages on Instagram. People were asking when I’d do it again and if I could bring it to Sydney. That overwhelming response marked the start of the Challenge Series.
To keep things inclusive, I used forums and my network to vote on some of the wines. My goal was to avoid focusing solely on the few regions typically considered the best for Chardonnay. Instead, I wanted to highlight regional diversity and stylistic differences. Too often, we’re asked to pick a favourite from a limited pool of regions, but as a wine community, we should celebrate the breadth of what our country has to offer. That means showcasing not only renowned producers but also the hidden gems.
Supporting regional diversity benefits everyone in the industry. Elevating Australian wines collectively—by shining a spotlight on lesser-known regions, producers, and styles—fosters a more vibrant and competitive wine landscape. With so many incredible soils, diverse climates, and rich history across the country, every region deserves its time to shine.
The series began with five wines I personally selected: Giaconda, Cullen Kevin John, Yattarna, Mount Mary, and Tolpuddle. These served as a baseline, and the public voted for the remaining selections. Interestingly, four of my initial five ended up in the top four, though I had no way of knowing that beforehand! To ensure regional variety, I included wines from Hunter Valley, Macedon, Mornington Peninsula, and Geelong. I also asked winemakers to choose vintages no older than four years to reflect recent growing conditions—recognising the vastly different vintage conditions across regions, like Margaret River’s incredible 2020 compared to Beechworth’s devastating losses to fire.
The Events
Melbourne
We hosted three events in Melbourne. In hindsight, one large and one smaller event might have been more practical, but I love hosting and wanted to make it accessible. Warm summer evenings provided the perfect setting for Chardonnay appreciation.
Melbourne’s voting revealed diverse preferences, with Cullen Kevin John taking an early lead and Penfolds Yattarna close behind. Tolpuddle, Cobaw Ridge, and Giaconda rounded out the top five at the first event. At the second event, Cullen narrowly edged out Giaconda, with Cobaw Ridge again performing strongly. Finally, the third event saw a change: Tolpuddle claimed the top spot, followed by Leeuwin Art Series and Giaconda.
Sydney
Next stop was Sydney, where we had the privilege of a surprise visit from Keppel Smith of Savaterre. Although his wine wasn’t in this year’s lineup, his insights were invaluable. This event featured lively discussions, excellent Italian food, and a few surprises.
The results largely mirrored Melbourne, with Tolpuddle taking first place and Cullen Kevin John close behind. Cobaw Ridge was the surprise of the evening, finishing third. Gaffey and Neal Merricks from Mornington Peninsula had its best showing, placing fourth, while Leeuwin Art Series rounded out the top five. A key takeaway from Sydney was the realisation among some attendees that wines they’d been collecting for years didn’t align with their current preferences—a fascinating revelation.
Perth
The final stop was Perth, where we enjoyed warm weather and incredible hospitality at Lamont’s Wine Store in Cottesloe. It was a special evening, made even more meaningful by the support of local legend John Jens (JJ), who closed his restaurant to host the event—a first in its history.
As expected, there was a strong showing for Margaret River wines, given their local proximity. Cullen Kevin John took first place, with Tolpuddle and Yattarna close behind. Giaconda started in the middle of the pack but finished strongly, showcasing its hallmark balance of fruit power and finesse.
Final Results
Across the Challenge Series, these wines emerged as the top contenders:
- Cullen Kevin John
- Giaconda
- Tolpuddle
- Penfolds Yattarna
- Leeuwin Art Series
- By Farr Cote Vineyard
- Cobaw Ridge
- Sorrenberg
- Gaffey and Neal Merricks
- Tyrrells VAT47
- Dappled SV
- Mount Mary
Personal Favourites
For those curious about my personal picks, the standouts were Cullen (twice), Giaconda, and Tolpuddle (twice). By Farr Cote Vineyard and Cobaw Ridge also performed exceptionally well for my palate.
Looking Ahead
The next stage of the Chardonnay Challenge will pit the top three from this series against a new set of contenders. Will they maintain their dominance, or will new challengers rise to the occasion?
Stay tuned, and as always, keep celebrating and exploring the diversity of Australian Chardonnay.
Wine Animal Out.